Couture Week 2016: Best of Haute Joaillerie, buyers and pricing
The work of High Jewellers is said to require such focusing of attention that during their creative work they always listen to beautiful music. Welcome to Paris!
It is the city where Renoir used to work, where people dance tango on the river walk and where you can find guidebooks with best places for kisses. The city, which keeps someone's deepest secrets for centuries, the city of revolutions and the city of dreams. It is here that greatest artists, poets and jewellers of all times were looking for their inspiration. The Jewellery Masterpiece team and Tatyana Pfaifer came to Paris to get a piece of inspiration from new Haute Joaillerie collections showcased here as part of the Paris Haute Couture week.
“Place Vendome in Paris is a Mecca for people who love and understand the art of jewellery. It is also a place of worship for jewellers, artists and designers. No one over the last 300 years created a jewellery better than in Paris. That is my opinion as a jeweller, art critic, art collector and expert on precious stones.
All the greatest things on earth, which happen in the world of jewellery, are born in Place Vendome - at Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Cartier and approximately ten other private jewellery ateliers in the neighboring streets. It is an integral culture, industry, tradition ... Taken together, it is the spirit of Paris, freedom, the spirit of revolution. Real High Jewellery has always been imbued with the spirit of Paris ... It's like a cuisine: there is delicious and healthy Italian food, which is culturally close to us, and there is high, incomprehensible and very expensive food - the French one! It, surely, has three Michelin Stars! Place Vandome is like a dream, it is the highest achievement, the order of the Legion of Honor, if you like!" (from the interview of Maxim Artsinovich, the founder of Maximilian-London lewellery house to" Russian Emirates " magazine)
Touchstones of Haute Joaillerie?
"So, it is the art, where items are acquired by collectors. Those are private clients, representatives of royal families, sheikhs, princes, aristocrats from Europe, rich Americans and educated Russians. They come to the Bienniale in Paris in search of unique jewellery pieces. Jewellers create such items for years" (from the interview of Maxim Artsinovich, the founder of Maximilian-London jewellery house to" Russian Emirates " magazine).
«Haute Joaillerie - is not just a specific design or a technological balancing act. It is primarily a philosophy, an idea, which is behind every piece of jewellery. That is why I admire Ren? Lalique. He started using ordinary materials like glass, bones, supplemented them by a few diamonds and the items were selling at the highest price. For him, the idea of the item was superior to the material it was made of. It is the art: what you sell is not a canvas or paints, but your thoughts and feelings. Haute Joaillerie still cannot be pure art, as your ears should not fall off at the end of the evening because of the earrings, so similar to life- size parrots,"(from the interview of Lorenz B?umer to vogue.ru).
What are the occasions for such gorgeous and beautiful jewellery?
"Drop it! High Jewellery, rubies and emeralds for the evening, pearls for the daytime and all that stuff are the standards of the last century. These days, you can have a romantic dinner with your beloved, and perhaps the only thing you will be wearing will be Vend?me necklace by Louis Vuitton (Lorenz B?umer told about Louis Vuitton jewellery, when he held the job of artistic director for fine jewelry at Louis Vuitton. Today, Lorenz B?umer has a jewellery line of his own - ed.) It is the sense of self but not dogma that should be the point of departure here. This is one of the reasons why most of the jewellery are transformable now. If you feel like wearing a long necklace today- here you are, a short one tomorrow - no problem. You should play with jewellery and treat it in an easy way. The same refers to jewellers. Say, I have an idea to make a bracelet. I can do it, but then I think: “Why not a jewellery watch?” There and then, I may have my cake and eat it. Utility is of great importance now” (from the interview of Lorenz B?umer to vogue.ru)
"Luxurious jewellery is a manifestation of what you have achieved in this life and what you are. It is symbolic in fierce competitive environment of those who are similar to you! Where is it manifested best of all? Please, do visit "Cipriani" in Monaco in the evening or "Villa Romana" in Saint Tropez during high season or "Calla di Volpe" in Sardinia. Well, there still really are places of jewellery power, like St Barts or Capri, Courchevel, St-Maurice, Miami, New York and, surely, London! “(from the interview of Maxim Artsinovich, the founder of Maximilian-London jewellery house to" Russian Emirates " magazine).
Who is the buyer?
"The upmarket has never experienced any lack of demand. If the King of Saudi Arabia decides to sell one of the gems of his collection, believe me, there will be a buyer on the same day. Another thing is that he is not going to sell it. Families of the Rothschilds and the Rockefellers, the Sultan of Brunei and the Queen of Great Britain have accumulated so many family jewels over generations that their value is the most prized tangible asset in the family, a financial instrument, if you like. But the "old money", as many people call the families in Europe and in the States, never sell their treasures" (from the interview of Maxim Artsinovich, the founder of Maximilian -London jewellery house to" Russian Emirates " magazine).
Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, the second of the three wives of Emir of Qatar Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani, Rania, the Queen of Jordan, Muna Ayub, a Lebanese millionaire, millionaires from Hong Kong are renowned High Jewellery buyers. Let us recall that the last two gorgeous rarest diamonds, Sweet Josephine, a pink one and Blue Moon Diamond, a blue one were acquired by Joseph Lau, a Hong Kong billionaire (according to Forbes, №114 in the global ranking of billionaires with the wealth of $10, 9 billion), who paid for them around $ 77 million at Christie's and Sotheby's auctions.
What are they buying and what is the pricing?
We suggest that you find out more about the best jewellery premieres of Couture Week 2016 according to Jewellery Masterpiece online magazine and Tatyana Pfaifer and have a look at the cost of the beauty. By the time journalists appear, as a rule, half of the collection is either sold or reserved for customers – that’s what I was told at almost all of the fashion houses of Place Vendome.
This time new Haute Joaillerie collection 26 Vend?me by Boucheron is definitely lively, sensual, symbolic and luxurious. You have a good possibility to make your choice out of 56 jewellery pieces. I for one fell in love with Lys Radiant necklace and Vend?me Chromatique et Argentique bracelet. It is easy to fall in love with the first necklace, as it is the front line player of the whole collection and the most costly item. Lys Radiant necklace from Nature Triomphante series is estimated at €3.035 million.
The lily is a legendary flower, symbolising power, majesty and opulence for millennia. In Boucheron's version it is imbued with light. It beams. 219 carats of rock crystal come alive with colorless diamonds shining inside. The diamond chain comes down the neckline and is joined by the lily- the queen of the flowers. A superb yellow pear-shaped 20-carat diamond is shining in the heart of the lily, surrounded by six transparent rock crystal petals. The necklace is transformable; you can detach the lily and wear it as a brooch. It is worth mentioning that the necklace was a challenge in design and technique for Boucheron jewellers.
The second masterpiece I adore most of all is Vend?me Chromatique et Argentique bracelet from Architecture Inspir? series estimated at €312 thousand. It is a rock crystal bracelet with an emerald-cut beryl of 94.15-carats. The imposing central column, which is the biggest value of Place Vend?me, is engraved on the beryl. The profile of the bracelet recalls the arcades of Place Vend?me.
H?tel Particulier necklace estimated at €985 thousand is for high and mighties, for a powerful and beautiful woman.
The geometric pattern of onyx, mother-of- pearl, moonstones and diamonds recall the graphic pattern of the historic mansion’s parquet flooring. A magnificent 21.80-carat yellow sapphire is at the center. Four rock crystal pendants recreate the view that the apartments enjoyed over the gardens of the Palais Royal. Three of them are at the front and one last pendant serves as the necklace clasp at the back. In the windows of the necklace, you will find a deer, a bird in the garden, and the starry sky.
New Haute Joaillerie collection Les Bl?s de Chanel is inspired by wheat. We picked 2 our favorite masterpieces out of 62 items.
Moisson d’Or brooch is my absolute favorite jewellery of the entire collection. Elegant and refined, it is like a diamond portrait of Gabrielle Chanel herself.
F?te des Moissons necklace is really the queen of the new collection estimated at €3.95 million. A magnificent yellow 25- carat diamond is in the center of F?te des Moissonsnecklace. It is noteworthy that it was created by the jewellers of Chanel house at Place Vend?me, though a good deal of Chanel jewellery is created in independent atelier cooperating with the jewellery house.
Van Cleef & Arpels
In new Haute Joaillerie collection Van Cleef & Arpels ?meraude en Majest? His Majesty Emerald is the main character of the novel. The central stones of most jewellery are unique emeralds from mines of Colombia and Zambia, including those taken out of ancient jewellery. The total weight of the emeralds in 55 new jewellery pieces is more than 1,400 carats.
Grand Opus necklace is something that catches your eye immediately. You know, one of the magic moments of my work is that I can see the jewellery pieces myself and touch them. Just recently all of them were only drawings or simply pictures. It is impossible to describe this necklace, to take a photo or catch it on video to convey the grandeur and the power that emanate from him. Just believe me. Interestingly, it had been sold by the moment the showcase opened.
Grand Opus set is decorated with three ancient Columbian emeralds totaling to 127.88 carats. Van Cleef & Arpels do not unveil their origin, but I feel like they were taken off something great. Besides, Grand Opus is a transformable necklace. It might be worn as a necklace with two different pendants, either the emerald one or the one in the shape of cultured pearl tassels. You can also attach the removable emerald pendants to the earrings or to the brooch. The cultured pearl tassels are also attachable in a similar way.
Sunny Side of Life is a new collection of bright moments of life by Piaget. It is all about cheerful life, joy and the desire to create, inspired by the sunny mood. All the jewellery of this Piaget collection are characterized by playfulness and lightness.
We were charmed by cuff bracelets with multihued bird feathers, created in collaboration with Nelly Saunier, an artist. It is an ode to the grandeur and the enchanting power of nature. Saunier, the winner of Liliane Bettencourt Prize "For skills in handicraft", keeps secrets of ancient techniques of working with feathers.
She likes to create modern products using old techniques. This approach is also close to the house of Piaget, who in their search for new are regularly rediscovering old crafts.
Another jewellery that captured many hearts is the transformable ring, one more ring can be pulled out of it with a smooth motion of your hand- a thin ring with a pear-shaped solitaire of 3.05 carats.
A transformable necklace with 8 Colombian emeralds boggles the mind with its luxury: a pear- cut Colombian emerald (4.99 carats in the average) and 7 Colombian "cushion" cut emeralds (27.85 carats in the average). The fragment with seven emeralds can be unfasten and worn as a bracelet. The price of this pleasure is around 2 million Swiss francs.
Bvlgari the Magnificent Inspiration collection is ultimately about gems, their rarity and beauty.
Extravaganza necklace is our choice of fantastic combination of precious stones. Lucia Silvestri, creative director of Bvlgari, told about it: "Listen to the music when you finger over amethysts, emeralds, spinel and cultural pearls." It should be mentioned that not many are the people who have the desire and the opportunity to find exceptional and important gems, and Lucia gives a part of her life to that.
Italian Extravaganza necklace estimated at € 4.1 million is the most expensive in the Magnificent Inspiration collection by Bvlgari. In its center, you will find a huge velvety blue sapphire of 45.15 carats from Sri Lanka and 12 emerald beads with a total weight of almost 40 carats.
If we talk about Bvlgari, how can we do without snakes? Our belle is a seducing emerald and diamond lady- snake of Serpenti Seduttori line. What is she seducing by? Not by her nakedness, but by her eyes, like a real lady.
Haven't you visited the King yet? The Palace of Versailles, the priceless gift of the Sun King Louis XIV to French nation, inspired new Dior ? Versailles collection. Versailles is the embodiment of luxury; it is grand, filled with elegant furniture, jewellery and works of art. Victoire de Castellane noticed different specific details of decoration in Versailles and created an elegant Dior ? Versailles collection of royal jewellery, calling the items by the names of halls and rooms of the palace. Each of the halls is like a poem of beauty and luxury, talent and skill. The collection comprises 60 pieces, a big part of which is rings (28 items). The whole ensemble is divided into unique pieces - 29 items and reproducible pieces - 31 items that can be reproduced in various combinations of colors and materials.
Appartements de Mesdames Cassette ring will please you with its secret. Its design is reminiscent of the famous Hall of Mirrors, there is a hiding place under a diamond "cover", set in a darkened silver, similar to those which in the Middle Ages were used by the court maids of honor for hiding sacred relics and poison for their competitresses.
Galerie des Glaces ("Hall of Mirrors") necklace has an aura of mystery. Drop shape diamonds, as if suspended in the air, are like a symbolic resemblance of crystal chandeliers of the Hall of Mirrors. A mix of old and more contemporary diamond cuts presents the piece of jewellery to us in a historical context.
Chambre du Roi ("Apartments of the King") necklace is € 2.1 million worth and resembles a tiara, which is turned upside down. It is made of white, pink and yellow gold in combination with darkened silver. The necklace is inlaid with almost a thousand of diamonds and a big 11.5-carat sapphire from Sri Lanka.
The new La Nature de Chaumet collection reveals all the mystery of nature through precious stones, which make up 64 jewellery pieces. Oak and laurel leaves, tender buds of lilies and ears of wheat - such are the motives through which Chaumet celebrates the beauty of nature. Golden wheat ears are the children of the shining sun and virgin earth, a gift of the gods to mortals. Golden wheat is a magic symbol of rebirth, a divine gift of life.
Offrandes d'?t? ("Gifts of Summer") ring was created as a diamond spikelet, entwining your finger in a bow ending with a 3- carat pear cut diamond. The jewellery looks weightless, graceful and gentle.
Le Laurier ("Laurus") set tells us the love story of Apollo and Daphne. The most beautiful, the wittiest and the most educated of all the Olympians, the god of archers, poets and musicians, Apollo was the most unlucky in love. He did not have a single happy romance. Perhaps, due to the fact that he incautiously made fun of Cupid. He made a mockery of Cupid's bow and was immediately punished. Cupid darted two arrows; one of them was the arrow of love, which wounded Apollo, the other one was the arrow of disgust, which wounded nymph Daphne, the daughter of the river god Peneus. So, Daphne became the first love of Apollo. The more his passion inflamed, the more unwelcome he became to the nymph. Trying to escape from her persistent admirer, Daphne preferred to become a tree, if only not to belong to Apollo. Mourning for his first unfortunate love, Apollo made laurel - Daphne his sacred tree and was the first to crown himself with a laurel wreath.
The male principle of the story is represented by Firmament apollinien ("Apollo Heaven") jewellery in the value of € 3.3 million. Each leaf of the laurel necklace is made by individual design, there is a 34.36 carat Burmese cushion shape sapphire in the center, moonstones and diamonds glorify the ancient god.
The female principle is transmitted through a magical pink spinel, contrasting with white diamonds in M?tamorphoses de Daphn? jewellery. In the Orient spinel is considered a powerful stimulant of sexual energy, love and passion.
A new London collection by De Beers is dedicated to main sights of the British capital and consists of 5 sets. Albert Bridge, as you may understand, is dedicated to the road bridge over the Thames. Elizabeth Tower is dedicated to Big Ben, or, the Tower of Elizabeth, as it is called. The third one is London Eye observation wheel. Thames Path is dedicated to the world famous path along the Thames. Battersea Light pays tribute to Battersea Power Station. The necklace valued at $ 1.7 million is the most expensive in the collection, the diamond- pendant is detachable (D, the weight is10.92 carats).
Giampiero Bodino captivates us with his luxuriously- wearable transformable jewellery. No extra words, just see and admire. All crosses of the first jewellery can be unfastened and worn as separate brooches. The second necklace with spinel and diamonds can be easily transformed into earrings.
Buccellati created a luxurious jewellery watch in gold with diamonds. It is made with the use of original Buccellati technique, it excites with the subtlety of its performance and its "silken gold", as I would call it; it is soft and tender.
De grisogono is a play of color. Their jewellery are thoroughly imbued with passion, fire, creativity and personal touch. Our choice is the ring with a 30.6- carat rubellite surrounded by 419 emeralds. It will give you joy and childish elation.
"I am sexy and I know it" - this is about what the earrings are telling. They are made of titanium with diamonds of 51 carats total and two diamonds of 5 carats each, and emeralds. An impressive spectacle I will tell you!
"Why create, if you reproduce what already exists? It is not the measure that matters but what lies beyond".
When I first looked at Lorenz B?umer Glacie necklace, I could not remove my gaze from a 199 carat aquamarine and at the same time I was a little embarrassed by the fact that Lorenz B?umer interpreted the flower theme too geometrically, as for me. However, at the moment I tried it on, a magic happened - it became absolutely of no importance what the form was, I saw only the aquamarine and my eyes. You tell me, size does not matter? I am not sure... I enjoyed wearing a sea. € 468 thousand - and it is yours!